Tuesday and Wednesday

The last couple days have been busy but wonderful. On Tuesday, my friend Suzie took me, her mom and a friend of her mom's to a Buddhist temple. This one overlooks the East Sea, near Pusan. The name is Woongongsa (rough transliteration). I'd been there once before, five years ago, but at that time I was in the throes of culture shock and wasn't able to enjoy it as well. This time I enjoyed myself, and although it was horribly hot and humid, it was very peaceful. As you know, I am Buddhist myself, so it was a treat to pray there at the shrine and light some incense.

On the way home, we stopped at a fish market, which is rather famous in that area, apparently. Mostly there was squid. Squid drying on metal racks everywhere. Yes, I took pictures, but they'll have to wait until I get home to load and put up here. Anyway, we also had a late lunch of cold noodles called naengmyon (myon meaning noodles) in a tiny little restaurant (with no aircon, much to my dismay). But the noodles are served in a broth of ice, and it really helped to cool down our bodies. I used the toilet there before we left, and I steeled myself for a nasty-smelling squat toilet, especially in a small restaurant in a fishing village. But surprise surprise, it was clean AND western! I said to Suzie afterward, "I've been in Korea 8 days and I have yet to see a squat toilet." She responded by saying that squats are a piece of history now. Later I learned that a couple years ago, the Korean government started a program for cleaning up the toilets of Korea.

Later that evening, I went to dinner with a good friend of mine - the Korean nurse who practically saved my life when I was here before and got sick with a bronchial infection and laryngitis. We had a lovely evening at a posh restaurant and then visited her home, which she is now renting out. She travels all over the world and has a very enlightened view of life, in my opinion. Very open minded and loves to live to the fullest. She's also so very generous, and clearly is well-liked by those in her community (we happened to run into a few people on our way to her home). I am happy to count Mrs. Byun in my circle of international friends. Oh, and she has helped me network into a place to stay in Pusan this weekend, since all the hotels are booked for the summer vacation season.

Yesterday I went into Ulsan, the city itself. I met a friend of mine, Tommy, and we started at the "old downtown" section, which has changed quite a bit, and also walked through the newer downtown area (all of which are places I used to haunt when I lived here). Finally we went to Ilsan beach, which is a very hopping area in the evening. Koreans like to have a good time, so there are many places to eat and drink, very informal, on the sand and around that area.

It was a great day in Ulsan. I saw so many new buildings and things that had changed - most notably a glass enclosure over the street of shops in old downtown, which makes it feel sort of like half mall-half street.

Next week I'll be staying in a Hotel in Ulsan when I get back from Pusan. I hope to have some time to collect my thoughts and write something more personal.

Today we're going to Suzie's mom's for lunch and I am meeting another Korean friend, Linda, for dinner. I'm hoping tomorrow Suzie and I will go to the beach. It is extremely hot outside these days and I'd love to cool off in the sea.